Venturing Out

We have been residents of Naples for 2 weeks now, and this weekend we were chomping at the bit to get out and explore our new hometown. That, and we really needed to get out of our hotel room for a while. Since our first couple weekends were filled with the business aspect of moving (finding a house, getting a car, etc.), we knew that we wanted to spend the weekend doing things that AC would enjoy. Low-key and easy were the keywords in planning our outings.


There isn't a shortage of volcanoes here in the Campania region of Italy. Perhaps you have heard of Mt. Vesuvius. In the true spirit of a Neapolitan, we have decided we won't be intimidated by these guys! Last weekend we visited military run Carney Park, which is a recreation area inside an extinct volcano. This weekend we stepped it up and ventured to Sulfatara, a dormant volcano in Campi Flegrei (Phelegrean Fields). I figure we'll just work our way up to Mount Vesuvius.


Solfatara is in every sense of the word overshadowed by it's bigger, stronger, more famous relative. Perhaps the "middle child" of this lovely volcanic region, but no less impressive to me. Then again, maybe I have a soft spot for middle children!


Upon entering the town of Pozzouli, Solfatara announces it's presence with the smell of sulfuric fumes. I was worried that the smell would be obnoxious and overwhelming, but was quite surprised by how pleasant and comforting the smell was once we were inside the crater. Really it should come as no surprise since people have travelled far and wide since the Middle Ages to inhale these sulfuric fumes that were once thought to cure respiratory illnesses. Also the mineral water found inside Sulfatara was once thought to have miraculous powers, such as curing ulcers and sterility (among other things).

The sulphuric vapor inhalation chambers. 

Today Solfatara's visitors don't come expecting miraculous cures. In fact most come to see the fumaroles, which are openings in the ground that emit sulfurous gases. It really is interesting to see plumes of gas simply emerging from the Earth! Many people also come to Sulfatara to see the bubbling mud pit, which wasn't bubbling at all when we were there. The mud pit is fenced off, as temperatures of the mud reach up to 160°C (300°F). 

Fumaroles

and more fumaroles!

Bocca Grande is the largest of the fumaroles.

No bubbling mud for us!

We spent only about an hour inside the cratere, which was plenty of time to see everything. We were excited to find a coffee shop (they are everywhere) and a playground at the end of the walking path. We bought AC her first gelato which she consumed with great enthusiasm. We then headed to the playground and found a merry-go-round. You'll be hard-pressed to find one an American playground these days, and we ALL revelled in this antiquated albeit unsafe piece of equipment!

Gelato and a playground are the ticket for this little girl.

Upon arriving in Naples, all newcomers must listen to a litany of horror stories and harsh realities from the "veterans" of the city. Most of the stories have to do with muggings or other criminal activities (that occur in every large city). So, when we decided it was time to explore the city we left our nice watches at home the hotel and minimized the belongings in our wallets.

We took the metro in from JFC (the NATO base), and after a wrong turn (or two) we made it right down to the Bay. The Naples Aquarium was our first destination, but along the way we passed through a market where everything from fresh mozzarella di buffala and wine to cheap toys and trinkets were being peddled. European markets certainly are different than anything I've encountered in the States! Many families would simply buy loaves of bread, some mozzarella cheese, and even some wine and spread a blanket in the park grass and spend the day relaxing. 

The Naples aquarium is supposedly the oldest aquarium in Europe. If that really is the case, I'm quite sure they haven't remodeled since it opened. The aquarium is housed in a beautiful, antique building that looks quite promising from the outside. After we paid our €1,50 (about $2.14) admission (for the whole family) I realized that I shouldn't have judged the book by its cover. There were about 30 small tanks in the aquarium, with a limited number of fauna from the Bay of Naples being represented. Though I was a bit miffed by the Naples Aquarium, AC experienced nothing short of adoration for the place. In the end, I would have payed much more to see my daughter that happy!

It sure looks promising!

On Sunday mornings the street right outside of the aquarium and parallel to the Bay is closed off to cars.  Instead of the crazy Neapolitan driving, we saw fathers teaching their young daughters to rollerblade, young boys playing soccer football, families pedaling go carts together, and young lovers out for a stroll. We leisurely strolled down the street, trying to fit in as much as possible while looking for a place to eat lunch.

Sunday lunch is a big deal in Italy, and usually the WHOLE family gathers. Luckily we got to our intended restaurant when the lunch crowd was still sparse, but when we walked through the door we couldn't help feeling like every eye in the place was on us. We simply look American, which causes others to take notice of us. We were seated right next to a family that had a daughter close in age to AC. The tables were spaced so tightly that at times I felt as if we were actually eating with this family. Seeing that meals are enjoyed at an extremely slow pace, Italians are more lenient in the expectations of children's behavior. When the young girl at the table next to us got restless one of the adults took her to buy some toys at a street vendor. She came back with a sack of plastic horses, and promptly gave not one, not two, but three of them to AC. Her father told us, "She wanting to give her a present. Her first present from Neapolitan girl." We were so touched by their generosity. I may have even blinked back a tear or two.

AC kissed her new horses for 5 minutes!

All in all, our first impression of the Bay of Naples was indeed a positive one. The sights are absolutely stunning. We can't believe that this place is ours to call home. We didn't even get mugged; just given toy horses as a gift. You better bet that this story will make it into my "realities of Italian life" when I talk to future newcomers.

Ciao, for now!