When Chief got orders for us to move to Naples, I knew that this assignment would encompass a great deal of change. A new language, a new culture, a new way of life was in store for each one of us. As expected everything we know changed the moment we stepped off the airplane.
A simple trip to the store involves much more cognitive energy than I ever expected. Luckily, my European spec car gauges speed in kilometers per hour; so that's a no brainer for me! Although, I do need to know how many kilometers or meters to make my turn. I also have to figure out how many liters of gasoline I need to put in my car, and remember to carry the right amount of gas ration coupons. At first I was constantly calculating these conversions in my head. After a month of living with the metric system, I am beginning to "get the feel" of it.
I have a running log of the U.S. dollar to euro conversion rate. One dollar is worth .74 euro, In case you wanted to know. All of this is really no big deal. I expected to have to learn all of this.
I also expected that when the going got tough and all this change was too much to handle I would be able to seek solace and comfort in the one thing that is familiar to me: Military life. WRONG! I've spent 7+ years of my life living near Army installations. Even though Chief is an Army representative on the NATO base, we rely on the Navy for all of our support activities (shopping, banking, the library, etc). The transition to "Navy life" has definitely been one of my biggest unexpected challenges.
Every military spouse knows the importance of learning the "language" of the military. It took me a couple of years to get accustomed to the structure of the Army, know the ranks, and most importantly understand all of the acronyms. A majority of military speak is done in acronyms. The terms ACU, MWR, CYS, PT, PCS, MP, BAH, and PX are just a handful of terms that are likely to be used in the course of a day. In fact, I often forget when I am talking to civilian friends and family that they might not understand these terms. Army acronyms have really become an important part of our family vernacular. Unfortunately many of the Navy's acronyms are different, which means that in addition to learning Italian, I am learning "Navy".
The Navy's ranks are very different than the Army's. For example, a Navy Chief is enlisted (E7 or above) and an Army Chief is an officer. When we were attending the mandatory week long AOR (area orientation), the Captain of the Naval Support Site came to speak to all of us newbies. For the life of me I couldn't understand why a Captain was in command of the whole Support Site. Finally, (my) Chief informed me that in the Navy a Captain is the equivalent of a full-bird Colonel. In the Army a Captain is an O3 and usually in charge of a company.
Another thing that I noticed upon arrival at the Navy base was the variety of uniforms they wear. I have counted at least 5 different uniforms. For the life of me I can't figure out a pattern to who wears what uniform; just that they are all dressed differently. On an Army installation you are likely to only see one uniform, maybe 2 on the rare occasion. For some reason it was comforting to know that everyone was dressed the same.
Really I must say that adjusting to life with the Navy is not so much of a nuisance, but just one more thing to add to the laundry list of adjustments that must be made. Number 284 on the list to be exact! In fact, I have found Navy life to be much more family friendly. All in all, change has been good for us, and if you're going to change one thing you might as well change it all!
Ciao, for now!
Thursday, September 30, 2010
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Oktoberfest
Oktoberfest flyers peppered JFC (the NATO base) when we first arrived here in Naples. Our interest was piqued not only by the colorful flyers showing people in traditional German costumes drinking beer, but also by a bouncy house! It just doesn't get much better than that for our little family of 3.
A few days later Chief happily reported to me that he bought our tickets and beer steins in advance. He explained that Oktoberfest is considered a work event after all. Since he works in an office with people from a multitude of nations, it was our duty to show up to Oktoberfest.
I was disappointed that it started raining a couple of hours before we were scheduled to arrive at Oktoberfest. Chief assured me that there were tents we could find shelter under, but I was more concerned about the affect the rain would have on the bouncy house. Spoken like a true mother, huh?
In the end everything worked out: the rain stopped, the food was great (coming from a former vegetarian), the beer was excellent, and most importantly the company was amazing! Good food, good beer, good times. What more can you ask for?
A few days later Chief happily reported to me that he bought our tickets and beer steins in advance. He explained that Oktoberfest is considered a work event after all. Since he works in an office with people from a multitude of nations, it was our duty to show up to Oktoberfest.
I was disappointed that it started raining a couple of hours before we were scheduled to arrive at Oktoberfest. Chief assured me that there were tents we could find shelter under, but I was more concerned about the affect the rain would have on the bouncy house. Spoken like a true mother, huh?
In the end everything worked out: the rain stopped, the food was great (coming from a former vegetarian), the beer was excellent, and most importantly the company was amazing! Good food, good beer, good times. What more can you ask for?
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| Chief had the mega stein. I'm pretty sure it weighed more than AC when full! |
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| My stein was more appropriately sized (for me at least)! |
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| AC loved the pretzels. |
Ciao, for now!
Monday, September 13, 2010
Venturing Out
We have been residents of Naples for 2 weeks now, and this weekend we were chomping at the bit to get out and explore our new hometown. That, and we really needed to get out of our hotel room for a while. Since our first couple weekends were filled with the business aspect of moving (finding a house, getting a car, etc.), we knew that we wanted to spend the weekend doing things that AC would enjoy. Low-key and easy were the keywords in planning our outings.
There isn't a shortage of volcanoes here in the Campania region of Italy. Perhaps you have heard of Mt. Vesuvius. In the true spirit of a Neapolitan, we have decided we won't be intimidated by these guys! Last weekend we visited military run Carney Park, which is a recreation area inside an extinct volcano. This weekend we stepped it up and ventured to Sulfatara, a dormant volcano in Campi Flegrei (Phelegrean Fields). I figure we'll just work our way up to Mount Vesuvius.
Solfatara is in every sense of the word overshadowed by it's bigger, stronger, more famous relative. Perhaps the "middle child" of this lovely volcanic region, but no less impressive to me. Then again, maybe I have a soft spot for middle children!
Upon entering the town of Pozzouli, Solfatara announces it's presence with the smell of sulfuric fumes. I was worried that the smell would be obnoxious and overwhelming, but was quite surprised by how pleasant and comforting the smell was once we were inside the crater. Really it should come as no surprise since people have travelled far and wide since the Middle Ages to inhale these sulfuric fumes that were once thought to cure respiratory illnesses. Also the mineral water found inside Sulfatara was once thought to have miraculous powers, such as curing ulcers and sterility (among other things).
Today Solfatara's visitors don't come expecting miraculous cures. In fact most come to see the fumaroles, which are openings in the ground that emit sulfurous gases. It really is interesting to see plumes of gas simply emerging from the Earth! Many people also come to Sulfatara to see the bubbling mud pit, which wasn't bubbling at all when we were there. The mud pit is fenced off, as temperatures of the mud reach up to 160°C (300°F).
We spent only about an hour inside the cratere, which was plenty of time to see everything. We were excited to find a coffee shop (they are everywhere) and a playground at the end of the walking path. We bought AC her first gelato which she consumed with great enthusiasm. We then headed to the playground and found a merry-go-round. You'll be hard-pressed to find one an American playground these days, and we ALL revelled in this antiquated albeit unsafe piece of equipment!
Upon arriving in Naples, all newcomers must listen to a litany of horror stories and harsh realities from the "veterans" of the city. Most of the stories have to do with muggings or other criminal activities (that occur in every large city). So, when we decided it was time to explore the city we left our nice watches at home the hotel and minimized the belongings in our wallets.
Sunday lunch is a big deal in Italy, and usually the WHOLE family gathers. Luckily we got to our intended restaurant when the lunch crowd was still sparse, but when we walked through the door we couldn't help feeling like every eye in the place was on us. We simply look American, which causes others to take notice of us. We were seated right next to a family that had a daughter close in age to AC. The tables were spaced so tightly that at times I felt as if we were actually eating with this family. Seeing that meals are enjoyed at an extremely slow pace, Italians are more lenient in the expectations of children's behavior. When the young girl at the table next to us got restless one of the adults took her to buy some toys at a street vendor. She came back with a sack of plastic horses, and promptly gave not one, not two, but three of them to AC. Her father told us, "She wanting to give her a present. Her first present from Neapolitan girl." We were so touched by their generosity. I may have even blinked back a tear or two.
All in all, our first impression of the Bay of Naples was indeed a positive one. The sights are absolutely stunning. We can't believe that this place is ours to call home. We didn't even get mugged; just given toy horses as a gift. You better bet that this story will make it into my "realities of Italian life" when I talk to future newcomers.
Ciao, for now!
There isn't a shortage of volcanoes here in the Campania region of Italy. Perhaps you have heard of Mt. Vesuvius. In the true spirit of a Neapolitan, we have decided we won't be intimidated by these guys! Last weekend we visited military run Carney Park, which is a recreation area inside an extinct volcano. This weekend we stepped it up and ventured to Sulfatara, a dormant volcano in Campi Flegrei (Phelegrean Fields). I figure we'll just work our way up to Mount Vesuvius.
Solfatara is in every sense of the word overshadowed by it's bigger, stronger, more famous relative. Perhaps the "middle child" of this lovely volcanic region, but no less impressive to me. Then again, maybe I have a soft spot for middle children!
Upon entering the town of Pozzouli, Solfatara announces it's presence with the smell of sulfuric fumes. I was worried that the smell would be obnoxious and overwhelming, but was quite surprised by how pleasant and comforting the smell was once we were inside the crater. Really it should come as no surprise since people have travelled far and wide since the Middle Ages to inhale these sulfuric fumes that were once thought to cure respiratory illnesses. Also the mineral water found inside Sulfatara was once thought to have miraculous powers, such as curing ulcers and sterility (among other things).
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| The sulphuric vapor inhalation chambers. |
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| Fumaroles |
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| and more fumaroles! |
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| Bocca Grande is the largest of the fumaroles. |
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| No bubbling mud for us! |
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| Gelato and a playground are the ticket for this little girl. |
We took the metro in from JFC (the NATO base), and after a wrong turn (or two) we made it right down to the Bay. The Naples Aquarium was our first destination, but along the way we passed through a market where everything from fresh mozzarella di buffala and wine to cheap toys and trinkets were being peddled. European markets certainly are different than anything I've encountered in the States! Many families would simply buy loaves of bread, some mozzarella cheese, and even some wine and spread a blanket in the park grass and spend the day relaxing.
The Naples aquarium is supposedly the oldest aquarium in Europe. If that really is the case, I'm quite sure they haven't remodeled since it opened. The aquarium is housed in a beautiful, antique building that looks quite promising from the outside. After we paid our €1,50 (about $2.14) admission (for the whole family) I realized that I shouldn't have judged the book by its cover. There were about 30 small tanks in the aquarium, with a limited number of fauna from the Bay of Naples being represented. Though I was a bit miffed by the Naples Aquarium, AC experienced nothing short of adoration for the place. In the end, I would have payed much more to see my daughter that happy!
On Sunday mornings the street right outside of the aquarium and parallel to the Bay is closed off to cars. Instead of the crazy Neapolitan driving, we saw fathers teaching their young daughters to rollerblade, young boys playing soccer football, families pedaling go carts together, and young lovers out for a stroll. We leisurely strolled down the street, trying to fit in as much as possible while looking for a place to eat lunch.
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| It sure looks promising! |
Sunday lunch is a big deal in Italy, and usually the WHOLE family gathers. Luckily we got to our intended restaurant when the lunch crowd was still sparse, but when we walked through the door we couldn't help feeling like every eye in the place was on us. We simply look American, which causes others to take notice of us. We were seated right next to a family that had a daughter close in age to AC. The tables were spaced so tightly that at times I felt as if we were actually eating with this family. Seeing that meals are enjoyed at an extremely slow pace, Italians are more lenient in the expectations of children's behavior. When the young girl at the table next to us got restless one of the adults took her to buy some toys at a street vendor. She came back with a sack of plastic horses, and promptly gave not one, not two, but three of them to AC. Her father told us, "She wanting to give her a present. Her first present from Neapolitan girl." We were so touched by their generosity. I may have even blinked back a tear or two.
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| AC kissed her new horses for 5 minutes! |
Ciao, for now!
Friday, September 10, 2010
An Italian Rite of Passage
I'm pleased to announce that we are the proud owners of not one, but two new cars. Actually "new" is stretching it. The term "Neapolitan beater" references many of the cars weaving about the streets, and is likely the best way to describe our recent purchases. But after relying on our sponsor for rides, getting around independently on the Neapolitan streets was a high priority on our list.
Shopping in the Boot, a book put out by the NOSC (Naples Overseas Spouses Club) warns not to bring a nice vehicle to Naples, as it is likely to get "texturized". It's common for two lane roads to turn into four lanes in the blink of an eye. Perhaps you might even be lucky enough to find yourself on a road so narrow that you could reach out and touch the building next to you. Many of the city roads have potholes that are actually the size of small craters. Talk about quickly wearing out a good pair of shocks. Luckily we were warned months ago not to bring our gas guzzling SUV. Though many Americans on the Naval base drive around in air conditioned, automatic SUVs I am glad we decided to do as the Neapolitans do.
The lemon lot on the Naval Support Site proved fruitful for us, and we were able to find two decent cars. The owner of Chief's 1995 BMW let us take the car last weekend for us test drive. Most of the vehicles to be purchased over here are manual transmissions. Chief has minimal experience driving a stick, but he's not really one to turn down a challenge. The adrenaline was in full force the first few times we navigated the Neapolitan highways. I'm talking white-knuckle, hold your breath thewholetime experiences.
Chief handpicked The Tank, which is a 1997 Mercedes from the lemon lot for me. Even though it is thirteen years old, it drives like a dream. The previous owner was fastidious about its upkeep, and it really shows. It is a wonderful family car that has toured the whole of Europe, and still has some get up and go. I am much more tentative about learning to drive a stick on these crazy roads, but I refuse to be limited by my lack of past driving experiences. I'm trying hard to embrace this Italian mentality that "anything goes" on the roads, but I wonder if I am just too darn American (nothing wrong with that!) to drive with these Neapolitans.
Ciao, for now!
Shopping in the Boot, a book put out by the NOSC (Naples Overseas Spouses Club) warns not to bring a nice vehicle to Naples, as it is likely to get "texturized". It's common for two lane roads to turn into four lanes in the blink of an eye. Perhaps you might even be lucky enough to find yourself on a road so narrow that you could reach out and touch the building next to you. Many of the city roads have potholes that are actually the size of small craters. Talk about quickly wearing out a good pair of shocks. Luckily we were warned months ago not to bring our gas guzzling SUV. Though many Americans on the Naval base drive around in air conditioned, automatic SUVs I am glad we decided to do as the Neapolitans do.
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| The BMW that Chief will be driving is already "texturized". |
The lemon lot on the Naval Support Site proved fruitful for us, and we were able to find two decent cars. The owner of Chief's 1995 BMW let us take the car last weekend for us test drive. Most of the vehicles to be purchased over here are manual transmissions. Chief has minimal experience driving a stick, but he's not really one to turn down a challenge. The adrenaline was in full force the first few times we navigated the Neapolitan highways. I'm talking white-knuckle, hold your breath thewholetime experiences.
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| The Mercedes is not "texturized" (yet)! |
Ciao, for now!
Sunday, September 5, 2010
Nuovo con un'etichetta
I appreciate all of the encouragement I received to continue the blog. I agree that it is an important way to chronicle our lives as we embark on many new adventures abroad. It's wonderful that our friends and family want to keep in touch with our lives! I am just happy that this digital world we live in allows us to communicate with loved ones so easily.
It's hard to believe that our boots (well sandals really) landed on the ground in Italy 10 days ago. We walk around this new land with wide eyes. A child seeing the world for the first time. It's almost too much to bear at times. We are constantly amazed by the combination of antique beauty and grime that surrounds us.
We are also trying to balance what we have to do (a lot!), with what we want to do. That's life, huh? Finalizing our car purchases, signing the contract to rent our house, having the house inspected, and moving into our house are all at the top of our to-do lists right now. Oh yeah, and LEARNING Italian!
The good news is that we found the perfect house (for us), and that alleviates a lot of the stress associated with uprooting our family and moving halfway across the world. The process of renting a house is lengthy, and in some cases takes up to 60 days to cut through all the red tape. We are learning that nothing moves fast in Italy! Since the house was previously rented to Americans we are hoping that the process is a little shorter. All fingers are crossed here!
As for now, we are still living in a hotel. Luckily, we absolutely love this quaint little place so it's not a problem. I'll tell you if we feel the same way in 40 days. You can imagine that spending 2 months in a hotel with an active toddler might be enough to fast-track anyone to the crazy house.
When looking for a house to rent, our lovely realator told many of the landlords that we are nuovo con un'etichetta (new with a tag). I can't think of a better way to describe us! Hopefully we are able to cut the tags off soon.
Ciao, for now
It's hard to believe that our boots (well sandals really) landed on the ground in Italy 10 days ago. We walk around this new land with wide eyes. A child seeing the world for the first time. It's almost too much to bear at times. We are constantly amazed by the combination of antique beauty and grime that surrounds us.
We are also trying to balance what we have to do (a lot!), with what we want to do. That's life, huh? Finalizing our car purchases, signing the contract to rent our house, having the house inspected, and moving into our house are all at the top of our to-do lists right now. Oh yeah, and LEARNING Italian!
The good news is that we found the perfect house (for us), and that alleviates a lot of the stress associated with uprooting our family and moving halfway across the world. The process of renting a house is lengthy, and in some cases takes up to 60 days to cut through all the red tape. We are learning that nothing moves fast in Italy! Since the house was previously rented to Americans we are hoping that the process is a little shorter. All fingers are crossed here!
As for now, we are still living in a hotel. Luckily, we absolutely love this quaint little place so it's not a problem. I'll tell you if we feel the same way in 40 days. You can imagine that spending 2 months in a hotel with an active toddler might be enough to fast-track anyone to the crazy house.
When looking for a house to rent, our lovely realator told many of the landlords that we are nuovo con un'etichetta (new with a tag). I can't think of a better way to describe us! Hopefully we are able to cut the tags off soon.
Ciao, for now
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